good morning. what a lucky guy. i threw my 5’10 in my car yesterday and headed down to the beach. i seriously thought the waves were going to be knee/waist high but when i pulled up, it was overhead and going off!! i had no leash but didn’t care. i paddled out and had such a fun session. it feels good to be back home. the waves are looking pretty fun today again. same like yesterday but looking super fun. i’m going surfing. see you in the water!!!
i went to my car that’s parked on the street. there were plants growing inside and out of my tires. i’m surprised it even started up….
i drove through waikiki yesterday on the way back home. it was just another beautiful day in paradise….
i had this photo on my desktop in a folder somewhere. i don’t even remember how i got it but i want that bottle of kirby daniel’s…. i would love to fill it up with shells and put it on my shelf….
**and last, here is a video i shot this past summer. i picked a day to meet mari-chan down there. just so happened, that day was the best day of the year, or maybe the best day in 10 years. the waves were so perfect and i haven’t seen diamond head like that since then. watch this video but don’t expect to see diamond head like this. this is as good as it gets…
