good morning. it’s been pretty relaxing here in hawaii. the sun, surf, fresh air, and lots of aloha. it feels great when people you don’t even know say hi to you. it’s the aloha spirit that makes this place so special….. i’m checking the waves now and it looks pretty fun. waist or maybe chest high at bowls with only 4 guys out. super clean conditions with no wind. 3 guys out at kaisers now. i bet diamond head’s the spot today. ala moana park looks fun too. only 15 guys or so out now. it’s 6:30am and the onshore winds should be coming this afternoon so get on it early. have a nice day. see you in the water….
hey, did you know there was an open market in hawaii kai on the weekends? it’s tucked away behind panda so it’s pretty hard to find. the fruits and vegetables are so fresh!!!
i got my fruits and vegetables for the week i’m here. i gained 15 lbs. in japan so it’s time for me to get back into shape before i gain 15 lbs more on my next trip. surf and eat healthy is the way to go….
as i was driving home for an afternoon surf yesterday, i saw the most amazing sunset. tall palm trees and amazing sunsets? yup, this is hawaii!!!
i was with my 2 nieces yesterday. both 16 years old and growing up way too fast. i wish they can shrink back into little kids again. i just want to remind all you kids out there. uncle kirby carries a loaded gun in his back pocket, and also has 2 loaded spearguns in his car. so if you even think about it, i won’t hesitate to pull the triggers….
**and last, want to thank everybody for the comments on the last video i posted. yeah, diamond head is a beautiful place and yeah, it doesn’t get like that often. that was a lucky day and i’m glad i got it on video. i’m planning to shoot another video on a normal day and you will see the difference. but all in all, diamond head is a beautiful surf spot and is the most consistent break on the island. it never ever gets flat. and for all of you who is asking who mari is. stay tuned for another video. mahalo.
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