My Home Movies….

201


i had an eye doctor appointment this morning. there was some good news, and some bad news. i don’t feel like talking about it now. but every time i go to the eye doctor, he puts drops in my eye to have it dilated. so when i leave the office, i’m pretty much blinded…. so when i went to check out diamond head, i couldn’t surf. and i don’t even know how i drive home. your supposed to rest for a while at the doctors office but you know me, no way… i’m out of there….

the winds came onshore in town early so diamond head was the spot. i even checked a secret spot on the east side this evening and the waves were going off. but my eyes were still irritated so i decided to go home and take a nap…

i was digging through some old videos last night and came across this one. seth on the left was 1.5 years old, josh on the right was 3 years old, and i just turned 17 years old. haha… but look at those 2 kids… kawaii!!!

and look at the 2 boys now. gosh, time just flies….

and here’s my 2 nieces temari on the left, and kelia on the right putting makeup on each other. i think they were 5 years old. they both had their first sleep over at my house at that time and i took video of the whole thing. i couldn’t stop laughing at it. i’m going to show it to everybody this christmas at my moms house…. home movies are priceless!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide