good morning. 8am and the waves are looking really good. i’m checking bowls now and there are only 5 guys out? why? i just seen a nice chest/shoulder high set and the conditions are perfect. i know somewhere that will be much better so i’m going surfing. see you in the water…. have a nice day!!!
yesterday was the first time i swam in the hilton hawaiian village lagoon. the water was so clean and refreshing. i think it gets sucked in by a pipe out in the ocean so the water is actually pretty cold. yesterday was so hot so it felt good. as you pull into the parking lot, look to the right to see if the water is getting pumped out. if it is, the water in the lagoon is clean. if the pump is broken or off, forget it. you will get sick….
hey, did you guys check out the new SURF1ST? there is the okinawa article in there. yeah, probably the best okinawa season since 10 years ago. i was there and i got hurt on the first day so i was pretty much on the sidelines the whole time. but even though i couldn’t surf, at least i can say i was there in the best 2 seasons of probably 20 years. check out shimpei’s cover shot!! sick!!!
the title of the article is MORAKOT. that was the typhoon that we surfed and it also happened to be the deadliest typhoon in taiwan history. i couldn’t even count how many big days there were. i just hope i can experience another season like this one and if i have to wait another 10 years, i will….. go pick up the new SURF1ST and see all the amazing photos kinsan took. sick!!!
