staying at the club house fronting sunabe main point is the best. you wake up and get the best view ever. waves or no waves, it’s refreshing to see the blue ocean. the trees grew tall so the boys started cutting it down before the swell arrived. here is shinpei deep inside getting dirty to make a clear view from room to surf.
satoru-san is one of okinawa’s big local surfers. i met him in g-land about 18 years ago and have been friends ever since. when ever the waves get good, i sit on the side of satoru-san in the lineup and wait for him to say “GO-KIRBY!” and once he says that, i go and nobody else even dares to paddle. that’s what you called respect!
just another sunset time at the sunabe wall with friends.
i woke up on the airplane, looked outside, and seen the first of our islands, niihau. this is one island i really want to visit. only a few lucky people are allowed there. i’m sure the water must be filled with wildlife! but on the way back to hawaii, once i see niihau, i know i’m only a few minutes away from my home sweet home. and boy does it feel so good.
when i surfed with nakamoto-san, all he kept on saying was “kimochi.” that means “feels so good.” yes, riding a long wave in the clean blue water is “kimochi.”
fujiki-san surfed better and better each wave he caught. i’m sure when he got back to japan and rode his magic boards, he got even better and better.
well, gotta run off to work in the ocean. hope you’re getting waves where ever you are because in about 15 minutes, i’ll be riding a wave with a big smile on my face. south swell all week long! i love it!
