surfed 2 rounds today. one at diamond head. super glassy, and super clean. i went out to one of my secret spots and only 2 guys were out. lucky! then this afternoon, i surfed bowls. head high and long lefts. the waves seemed bigger than yesterday. tomorrow, i think i’ll dawn patrol. better eat early, sleep early, and wake up early. goodnight.
i want to thank everybody at TSSC for sending me the goodie bag. i really needed some new t-shirts and now i got some.
and these cool coffee mugs. no other surfboard company makes cooler stuff than TSSC.
wanted to thank Yayoi-san for volunteering the clean up effort in Minamisoma. while the rest of the world forgets, we still know that the fukushima plant is still very dangerous. and Minamisoma lies a few miles away. i’ll never forget the feeling of the first time we went there. i was so uneducated about radiation and seriously thought that i was going to melt and die. but hey, things are looking much better for Minamisoma as very kind people like Yayoi-san keep on volunteering. never give up!
it’s photos like these that make me smile. life again!
i want to thank Futogawa-san for this wonderful book! i brought it back to hawaii and i’ll read it soon.
the last okinawa typhoon was strong. while people were running away, we were chasing it. to take a boat out in the open ocean with huge swells and strong winds is pretty crazy. as i was watching Akeo and Shinpei paddle out to the outer reef, i was thinking to myself that us surfers are pretty nuts. we love the adrenaline, and we love the challenge. the harder conditions it is, the more rewarding it is. sounds nuts, but that’s how we live our life. it’s not for everybody, but if you enter our world, your life will never be the same.
