Wakayama Dentist Surfer Girl, Broken Water, US vs. China?

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photo 1
i had a great time surfing with Kamei-san. Kamei-san is a dentist in wakayama and is one of the few women surfers from her area. she used my 5’10, we paddled out to bowls, sat at the peak, and caught all sets. she was charging the head high waves and riding them all the way through. i was super impressed with her level and confidence. so calm, so cool, and so good. what a great surfer!
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we ate a healthy soup and sandwich. then off to waiola for the best shave ice in town. in fact, you can’t even call this shave ice. it’s more like powder snow!
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then i went home like normal to empty out my car. i forgot that i put the case of water i bought earlier on the ground. so when i pulled out of my driveway, the water bottles exploded!!! OMG!
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i was pretty shocked. but i guess it could have been worse. nobody got hurt and water is replaceable. people aren’t. i’ll watch better next time i back up. the weird thing is my sensors were beeping and i even have a back camera. i heard it but didn’t look. next time, i will.
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i always feel safe in japan from other countries threats. why? because there are so many US military bases in japan and the neighboring countries have to be crazy to mess with japan. the US military is the best in the world and president obama isn’t afraid of pulling the trigger. so because japan and china are fighting for those little islands, our US military are moving in. what normal people don’t know that war is america’s number 1 business. without war, our country can’t survive. so we don’t back down to anybody. it’s sad, but it’s the truth. as for me, i’m all about peace!
*news update: the guy who stabbed and killed the young 23 year old boy at ala moana shopping center yesterday is still out there somewhere. be careful!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide