i pulled up to backdoor this morning. the waves looked fun but i felt like surfing something different so i drove to rocky point. there were 15 guys surfing the right and nobody at the left. i was wondering why nobody was surfing the lefts but when i seen the strong current, i figured it out. that was my chance. i don’t mind surfing in current because i love to paddle. so i went out to the left, surfed by myself for an hour and a half. i had rocky point lefts all to myself on a weekend? yup!!! i caught so many good lefts and had a great workout at the same time…. score!!!
then i went to the billabong house and the kids were just waking up. here is seth checking out backdoor. gosh, someday i want to buy this house….
my sister made an awesome breakfast. i ate breakfast before i left my house this morning so this was my second breakfast of the morning. i figured i worked out a lot in the current so i deserved another breakfast. thanks sis…. and oh, what’s for breakfast tomorrow? haha…
down the beach, a bodyboard photographer got hurt. and this won’t be the first injury of the year. we’ve only just begun….
on the way back to town, i stopped by alyssa’s jewelry sale. she had such cool things. this is a wishing bracelet. as you tie it on your hand, you make a wish. she uses silk string so it’s made to come off someday. and when it does, that wish comes true. what a clever idea!! i bought 2 wishing bracelets. one for a special little girl, and another one for a lucky person who reads my blog. i’ll tell you how you can win it later so stay tuned…. i also got some earrings to give away. anyway, tonight is halloween in hawaii so crazy things are going to happen. i hope i make it home safely… haha… boo!!!
