My Filipino Shell…

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good morning. the pain is here!!! i thought i could handle anything but i was wrong. after i came back from hand surgery yesterday, i was fine. that’s until the numbness started to wear off. then my hand felt like it was on fire. they must have cut deep because i feel deep burning pain!!

i couldn’t take it anymore so i dipped into my vicadin pain killers. one hour later, i thought i was floating above the clouds. so many people got addicted to vicadin. people like anna nicole smith, michael jackson, and many sports athletes. now i know why. it didn’t take the pain away, it took my mind off the pain. it made me feel good and made me think about happy things. then i woke up in the middle of the night as it wore off and started to have nightmares. i wanted to take another one but decided not too. vicadin is a drug and if i was depressed, i could see myself taking pill after pill. that’s not good…. so in the rubbish can it’s going. bye bye….

remember this shell my friend in the philippines gave me a couple of years ago? after almost getting taken away from customs, i finally got it home…..

it’s now in my shell collection and will be with me forever….

check out this landslide in padang, indonesia from the earthquake. i’m pretty scared to go back there but probably will go anyway. i just don’t think too many people will come with me….
as for the waves? nice solid head high south swell in town. clean and crowded. north shore is small but i see an awesome rainbow above pipeline right now. cool…. have a nice day!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide