good evening. went to the north shore this morning and everywhere was packed…. it’s winter holiday here in hawaii and seems like nobody is working these days. everybody is surfing…
this was lani’s about 9am. there were about 60 surfers out, mostly longboarders, and no parking. the waves looked pretty fun but no way i was going out there… so i took shun and ryota to a secret spot. haven’t surfed there in a while and almost forgot about it. nobody was out so we were lucky. it’s a left break with current and kind of hard to lineup. i had the two boys paddle out by themselves because i wanted to see if they could figure out the spot. after 5 minutes, they were catching all the good waves. gosh, these kids have pretty good wave knowledge. i know surfers my age who have been surfing for 20 years that get lost out there. it’s a hard wave but the kids made it look easy… it was double overhead for them and they were charging hard….
shun and ryota don’t only get barreled in the water, here they are getting barreled at ted’s bakery…
came back to town after lunch and oh my gosh, it was so beautiful…. this is what paradise is all about….
and this is not paradise. this is what’s going on in palestine… those aren’t termite eaten wood, those are bullet holes in the cement building…. peace guys….
