Prepared, Waves, and Mr. Seinfield

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last nights tsunami scare was pretty crazy. i found out around 7pm so i jumped in my car and headed to diamond head to move my friends car and harley away from the shoreline. as i drove down my street, people were speeding, panicking, and there was no law on the streets. traffic everywhere, stores packed, and just crazy. yes, people in hawaii panic and i knew that i would probably get into an accident trying to drive down to the shoreline as people are fleeing. so i turn around, go home, and watch tv. before the first wave was going to hit, i was asleep. wanted to thank everybody for the calls and emails concerned for my safety. i really appreciate it.
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this is the gas station near my house. there was a long line to get gas and i heard there was even a fight at a ewa beach gas station. yes, panic.
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now i’m really glad that i don’t own or take care of a big boat. if i did, i’d have to get to the yacht harbor somehow, and get the boat out to the ocean. then sit out there all night alone and wonder what will happen. i’m sure it’s not a good feeling.
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so i get up, check the waves, and pick up Goto-san. we surf, we eat, we shop, and we surf. i had a great time with him today and was stoked to see him catch so many good waves! and i’m super stoked with my new maui jim sunglasses!!!! i scored!
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we drove by diamond head and the waves looked super fun. but to park the car, hike down, paddle out, and do the same coming back is not to fun. so we jumped back in the car and headed to ala moana. better call as the waves were perfect!
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waikiki is booming! there are so many tourist here this year!!! i drive down there everyday and am pretty stoked to see so many people around the world loving this island.
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i took Goto-san to my dream house. i drive by this house for the past 15 years and always wish it was mine. it was never for sale and it just went on the market 3 months ago. if you seen this location, you would know why this is my dream house. you should see the inside. OMG! i’ll take you in there tomorrow. but for tonight, i’m going to check my bank account and see if i have $6.3 million in it. haha. yeah, that’s 501,858,000 yen. yeah, in my dreams for now.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide