gosh, it feels so good to get up early in the morning and head out to the north shore. it’s pretty exciting to think about getting barreled at one of the most famous surf spot in the world. i knew the waves were getting bigger by the minute and today was going to be big stuff. i was so excited that i was actually speeding all the way there. my bad. sorry.
when i got there, i seen the most incredible line up. only a few guys out in the water and huge waves coming from the outside. i didn’t even check the waves as i ran up the beach with my 7’0. butterflies in the stomach all go away until i jump into the water. nervous is not what you want to be out at backdoor/pipeline because nervous will get you hurt. the waves were perfect! i got 3 really good long barrels and the cool thing that it was so uncrowded. most of the guys were at the contest up at sunset beach, including my nephews. i actually felt sorry for them. haha.
it’s the most incredible feeling of taking off on a huge wave, bottom turning into a huge barrel, getting covered up, and then coming out. by far the best feeling in the world. i paddled out and it was about 5′, then 6′, then 8′, then second reef waves breaking out at see making it 10′ at off the wall. waves should be dropping tomorrow and the tradewinds will be back. epic surf all week long. so happy!
then i speed back to town and longboard bowls. while i was out there with my friends, i was thinking to myself what a wonderful surfing life i have. both sessions made me happy today. the beer will surely taste good tonight.
want to thank Inaida-san and Yuki-san for bringing me the fresh omentaiko. this was my lunch and i felt like i was in a fancy restaurant in japan. good food brings good happiness.
fish eggs one per day. looking forward to the next 2.
seen this guy walking down the beach yesterday with the most classic surfboard. i actually wanted to run down and buy it from him. i wonder if this guy knows what he’s actually carrying under his arm? a piece of hawaiian surfing history.
