gosh, it feels so good to be back home.
t-shirt,
shorts,
and slippers.
that’s all i need….
the first thing i did was unpack my brand new board i brought home with me. put on my stickers, waxed it up, and i went straight to the beach…. this is a new 5’8 chris kaysen thunderbird model. it worked unreal!!
i sure missed the beautiful weather here. i heard it’s been cold but please don’t tell me that. people here don’t know what cold is…. hawaii is paradise!!! i surfed kaisers. it was flat but every 15 minutes, a chest high barrel will come through. and i was on it. it felt good to get crystal blue barreled again….
along with thousands of unopened emails, i still get piles of regular mail too. i finally got my crystal JAL card. after flying all those miles this year, JAL finally stepped up to put me in the VIP category. now i can fly first class, check in all my board for free, and have a flight attendant giving me a massage on all my flights. score yeah!!! the bummer thing is that i don’t want to board an airplane for a long time….
well, i’m back and got thousands of things to do. have a great evening….
