the wind is getting cooler, the water is getting cooler, and the air is getting cooler. we are entering winter season in hawaii and when you wake up to a fogged windshield, you know it’s cold. but hey, i love it because once the sun comes out, it’s warm in paradise!
i woke up early yesterday morning to check the waves. looked at diamond head and ala moana. super small and super crowded. then i remember this other spot that is only for locals. i went there and guess what? 2 guys out and super fun perfect waves! score!
Yoshida-san and Iishi-sensei are 2 cool surfers from tokyo!
after surfing this spot for over 30 years, yesterday was the first time somebody stole my slippers. gosh, these yamari slippers made in okinawa are in demand. this is my 2nd pair stolen and if you ever see somebody wearing them in hawaii, call the police because those are mine. i’m kind of bummed out and if i see somebody down at the beach wearing them, i’m will push him into the ocean, hold him down underwater for 1 minute, and make him say sorry. i hate people that steal!
so i was slipperless and had to go into a restaurant to eat lunch like this. it was kind of embarrassing. haha.
well, went diving today. had another great time underwater. did 45 dives averaging 40′ with my deepest at 57′. felt pretty comfortable down there. on 4 dives, i seen big sharks. one came over my shoulder again and kind of freaked me out. i missed a big ulua, kyle got the big munu, kathy and alan were catching dinner from the boat. it was a beautiful day again and after all those dives, i feel so fresh! one beer and i’ll be sleeping good. have a wonderful evening!
