A Santa Tradition…

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if i were to pick an absolutely picture perfect day here in hawaii, it would have been today. the skies were deep blue all day long and the air was so clear. i went down to ala moana beach park for some exercise. ran the beach from kewalo’s to magic island. i was running kind of fast so i got tired really fast. when i reached magic island, i thought my heart was going to stop… so i jumped into the water and swam all the way back. i was swimming as fast as i could and never got tired even once. i felt like swimming around the island….

when i was a little kid, my grandma osaki use to drive us down to ala moana shopping center the day santa went up…. so every time i see santa, i think about my grandma… ala moana shopping center has been doing it for over 30 years….

wanna know where to eat the best crab ever? Sari Laut Sea Food in Sanur, Bali. kimura-san told me that i should try there. so last time i was in bali, i jumped on my motorcycle and headed there by myself….

oh my gosh!! the crab was soooo good that i had to drink 2 large bintangs…. 10 minutes later, i was done… $10 for everything. wanna know where it is? umm… sorry, that’s a secret….
anyway, want to congratulate all the marathon runners!! good job!!! i really want to run the marathon someday but my knees are telling me not to. after i climbed mt. fuji, i couldn’t walk right for a while. i don’t want that happening again because there are good waves and good diving conditions all week long… fish for christmas? oh yes….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide