i wanted to congratulate Kiyotou-san for completing the honolulu marathon. he came all the way from shikoku and we surfed 2 days ago. then he went to hike up diamond head that afternoon. then he ran the marathon yesterday, then when i picked him up this morning, he was ready to get out of waikiki. so we went to the north shore. i already knew where i was going to take him but he didn’t. we parked the car, got our boards out, and walked down the beach. he asked where we were going to surf and i told him “Pipeline.”
He caught 6 good waves at both Pipeline and Backdoor, then we had to go back and get a few photos because i’m sure his friends aren’t going to believe him. the waves were so fun today and not too many guys out. felt good to be surfing some power waves! good job Kiyotou-san! have a safe trip back to japan.
Katsura-san is the best trainer/swimmer/stretcher in the world. super good at what she does and a really hard worker. now that surfings in her life, i’m sure the energy she gets from the ocean will give her more power to work harder and harder.
Inaida-san told me that he feels the healthiest he’s ever felt in his life. and i’ve seen with my own eyes his body form into a surfers body ever since he picked up a surfboard. healthy means happy. great surfing today!
Yuki-san’s surfing level is going up so fast that other surfers in the water are even surprised. wave knowledge, style, and grace. kelia moniz better watch out because Yuki-san might be the next world champion.
