good evening. this is how i started my day. woke up early morning to surf the north shore. jumped in my car. no gas?? shit, i forgot to put gas in my car yesterday and it must have just run out. this is the first time since high school. i felt like an idiot… took the portable gas can to the the gas station to get gas. what a shitty way to start off the day. i felt like a loser and almost went back to sleep to start all over. but then i’m glad i drove out…
pulled up to backdoor and the waves were pretty good. actually epic for this year and nobody was around. buoy 1 is broken so nobody knows there’s waves….. it was 3-5′ with some nice barrels….
the sun came out for 10 seconds and everything looked so green and blue…. gosh, it was such a beautiful day out there….
on the way back to town, i always stop over in wahiawa at sunny side. it’s kind of like home cooking, which i love….
i always order the liver/bacon and chicken cutlet combo plate. after i finish eating this, i have a hard time driving home… feel like sleeping…
anyway, off to a barbecue at my friend carters house. taking some fish over…. have a great evening and good night sleep…..
and don’t forget the big UFC fight tonight. chuck liddell vs. wanderlei silva….. it’s going to be NUTS!!!!!
