good morning. merry christmas swell? eddie might go again? no, just joking. but there is another 25′ swell expected on christmas day. yup, japan was cold yeah? now santa is delivering a huge christmas swell present. stay tuned… as for the wave today. the north shore came up. it looks 8-10′ and rising. still a little bumpy but looking pretty good. sunset? haleiwa? pipe is junk. town is flat. today is a north shore day. see you out there…
i had to go up to pacific heights yesterday. can you believe that after living in hawaii my whole life, yesterday was the first time i’ve ever gone up there? i guess there is a lot more about hawaii i have to investigate… i went up there to buy a long board for my surfing school and met the nicest couple… there are so many nice people in this world and i’m glad i’m finding them….
kelia came over for dinner. it’s been a while since i saw her. like usual, we had our laughs!! kelia really wants to go to japan and i hope i can make that happen. wish me luck….
i met taro tamai over 12 years ago in hokkaido. he took us up the lift at niseko to the top of the mountain, we walked to the backside where nobody else was, and had the snowboard experience of a lifetime. that’s when snow surfing was introduced to me. i remember watching taro-san carve the white powder mountain like a piece of cake. we came down, jumped in the hot spring, and talked story. i will never forget that experience because after that, i quit snowboarding. why? because i don’t know my limits and it was only a matter of time i would fall off a cliff, or hit a tree and die. so that was my last snowboarding experience and i’m glad it was with taro-san. this past summer, we went on a boat to north sumatra. i got to know taro-san much more and was impressed with his artistic ways of taking photos, and the way he flowed on a surfboard. i talked to him 2 days ago and he told me he just came back from san francisco for the premier of the new film SIGNATURES PRESENTED BY PATAGONIA. i just seen the trailer and was amazed. not surprised because i seen him surfing the mountain with my own eyes. but amazed because taro-san was in his own realm, which is the mountain….. now i’m inspired again to get a gentem stick shaped by taro-san, and go carve up hokkaido with him next year. taro-san, please take me to your backyard again!!!!
**CHECK OUT THE TRAILER FOR SIGNATURES.
**CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT SIGNATURES….
