Fresh eggs, Sister, and Boat Riding

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i drive down to the beach, the winds are 35mph. i try to hold down my surfboard while i’m changing into my trunks, the board almost flies away, i paddle out as the wind pushes me out to the lineup, i catch 5 waves, and i’m feeling great! i had a secret spot all to myself and the waves were good! for most people here, it’s freezing cold, but for me coming back from japan, it’s warm paradise! i’m glad to be back home! ate a poke bowl, made some phone calls, did some cleaning, and my regular lifestyle should be back by tomorrow.
photo 1
peanut and butter finally are laying eggs everyday. 2 big brown delicious eggs perfect for my breakfast tomorrow morning. isn’t it beautiful?
photo 2
there were less than 10 limited “Sister” Kelia Moniz shirts printed for last nights party. i have one and if you have one too, you’re very lucky. once i get this signed, i’ll be giving it away too.
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wanted to thank Toco-san for joining our One Missions and for sending me these photos. Toco-san joined M1 and it’s good to see the progress from M1 to M7. awesome!
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going to Kobuchihama is exciting for me. this is one fishing village that isn’t waiting around wasting time. right after the tsunami, they were back to the harbor cleaning up and moving forward. i’m sure this village will be back to normal because the people aren’t giving up. they work hard everyday and it’s good to see the seaweed, nori, oysters, and other sea life coming back to normal. i tasted it all and let me say that “it’s top grade.” hey Kimura-san, “thank you for letting me drive your boat. i wish everybody in hawaii could experience the true japanese culture by true japanese people like i have. i will never forget these experiences.
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yes, it was cold! after we left the harbor, i couldn’t feel my hands, face, and ears. they were all frozen!
photo 3
i have a question? is this whale sashimi????

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide