good evening. i paddle out to the lineup before 6 am this morning. it’s pitch dark. i can barely see but i know how the waves break out there so i managed to catch some really perfect barreling rights. all i could see were the street lights reflecting off the waves. it was freaking amazing…
then i’m sitting in the lineup and here comes another surfer. we start talking to each other. 20 minutes later, it gets lighted and the guy that i was talking too happened to be my friend. we didn’t even know because it was too dark. that was pretty funny….
i got out of the water at 7:30 am and started driving back to town. as i was driving back, i checked a couple more surf spots. it was such a beautiful day and i’m glad i had my camera. no, this is not puerto escondido, no, this is not indonesia, and no, this is not the philippines. this is a secret spot somewhere on this beautiful island of oahu. empty barrels in hawaii? yup, if you know where to look….
how about here? do you know where this is? this spot is well known but not too tourists. here, locals rule!!!
as i was driving along the highway, i seen this surfer ripping this one wave. it was carissa moore. i got some amazing photos of this future world champion….
well, tomorrow will be another early morning so i better get to sleep. have a great evening!!!
oh… by the way, i went fishing this afternoon…
i pulled up to these rocks where i know that fish hide inside. there were already these kids fishing there. as soon as i got my custom fishing pole out with my plastic bag of bread, they looked at me and laughed… “hey, you going fish with that pole? what’s that in the bag, bread? haha…. they were there all day long and only caught 3 fish. they had all the best fishing poles and expensive octopus for bait. ummmm….
so i get out my barbie special fishing pole, tie my hook, put a small piece of bread, and 2 minutes later. hanapa!!! hook up!!! yeah, i got my first fish. the boys there looked at me like i was crazy or something. so i put on another piece of bread, 2 minutes later, hanapa!! hook up!!! then i got another one. i was going to throw my fish back into the water but the boys wanted to take it home and eat it. so i said ok. i fished for 15 minutes and started putting my gear away. then one of the boys came up to me and said politely, “excuse me, can i have the rest of your bread?” haha…
a lesson learned… like my mom always taught me “NEVER JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS COVER”
