i woke up yesterday morning and watched the sunrise from my house, then the moon set from my house. this is pipeline with the full moon setting in the morning. how cool is this? i couldn’t go out to the north shore today but i know my nephews are getting my share of barrels. the HIO junior mens division ran today and the big results are coming shortly. i heard a rumor of the dark horse winning it? i wonder who?
i pass by diamond head every morning on the way to work. why? because i can tell the swell and wind direction by looking at it for 3 seconds. then i know where the best spot is on the south shore and i usually end up going there.
taking happy families surfing and eating in hawaii is so much fun! especially when it’s their first time to hawaii and first time surfing. Tetsuya-san is a good surfer from japan. his wife Yuki-san and two kids Rii-chan and Miri-chan where first timers on the surfboard. the all stood up on the first wave and we had so much fun in the ocean. then after it was healthy food followed by waiola shave ice. i’m sure this wonderful family will enjoy the rest of their stay in hawaii. keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
last night i looked at the wave charts and the swell was downgraded. maybe 18-20′ but peaking sunday night. so probably no eddie this weekend.
but it might be big enough for the paddle-in jaws event on maui. stay tuned for some crazy wave riding and some death wipeouts!
gotta get going to my office, the ocean. have a wonderful day!
