good evening. wow! don’t let the weather fool you. it’s been raining all day, the water is dirty, but so what? if you know how to have fun and enjoy hawaii, you will have fun and enjoy hawaii. today was no different when i took team saitama surfing all day long.
these 3 surfers are the coolest! last year when Koguma-san and Enomoto-san came to hawaii, i took them to backdoor and we all got barreled. this year, we surfed in town because town was the best. we surfed all morning with the brightest rainbow over the ocean. and we surfed all afternoon with another double rainbow over waikiki. it was super amazing!
Enomoto-san surfed huge haleiwa a few days ago during that big north shore swell. he hit his board and cracked his rib. but a cracked rib didn’t keep him out of the water today.
i remember Koguma-san getting barreled at backdoor last year. he was so stoked and told me that that was his great memory. this guy rips!
Ejiri-san rode a 9’8 board today and surfed it as well as anybody could. i was so stoked to see him catching good waves and riding it all the way till the end.
i had my fair share of good waves too. can you believe we had bowls for 2 hours with just us out? yeah, only us enjoying every single wave we caught.
thank you Daniel Pinho for taking these cool photos.
going to sleep because i’m surfing all day again tomorrow. goodnight!
*and to the saitama surf team, thank you so much for today. all the good waves and laughing was super fun. you guys are super cool and hope to see you again next year. i’ll drop off the photo cd at your hotel tomorrow. enjoy and keep on surfing!
