i was sitting at home early in the morning watching the waves on the north shore. backdoor was only 3′ but growing every minute. should i stay or should i go??? i had to be back in town by 12 so i was undecided. then my sister sends me a photo she just took of seth getting a huge barrel. omg! i was in pain! and i still couldn’t go because of the traffic and because i had to be back in town. then at 8:30am, i get the text of my afternoon cancelation. i sped 100mph to the north shore weaving through traffic. i get up to the beach and the waves are 6′ and perfect. i paddle out, it was super packed, then guess what? the wind comes onshore and it starts pouring rain. the waves went from perfect to ugly in 5 minutes. then i paddle for a set, i miss it, turn around, and there is a 10′ a-frame double up wave about to break on my head. i throw my board, i get pounded to the reef, i finally make it back up, then here comes another one. and another one. i get pounded all the way to the beach hitting the reef 3x. forget it. i was bummed. took a shower and walked back to my car thinking “i just spent over $30 in gas, put things off that had to be done, and am going to drive home bummmed.” then as i put my board back in the car, i look up and see the rain stop, and so did the wind. i walk back to the beach to check just in case and guess what? the waves got perfect again. i paddle out and everybody most of the crowd was gone. 10 minutes later, here comes my huge backdoor barrel. i paddle, take off, bottom turn, and get the sickest barrel! then i went in and drove around the island back to town with the biggest smile on my face. i’m a very satisfied surfer right now. just another day in the office!
