i wake up at 6:30am yesterday. check the waves. call Kimura-san, call Hayato, “let’s go surf!!!!” we meet at bowls, jump in one car, and head north. where? i still wasn’t sure but kind of had an idea. there is a super super secret spot on the north shore that nobody knows about, and the spot doesn’t even have a name. i’ve been surfing there for over 25 years and only have taken a few. in fact, i’ve only taken about 7 good friends out there since i started surfing there. only people i can trust. you can’t see it from the road, and it doesn’t even look like a surf spot. but i knew that the waves were going to be good. perfect size, perfect swell direction, perfect tide, and perfect wind. so we parked the car, no surf check, waxed our boards, and paddled out. on a crowded sunday, there was only us. the 3 of us exchanging waves, smiles, and laughs. had enough, jumped back in the car, and got back to town by 11am. ate kalbi noodle soup, and went home to take a nap. monzoku means “satisfied.” what a great day it was!
Kimura-san has been coming to hawaii for years but didn’t know where the famous hitachi tree was. so we stopped by on the way out to the north shore. i asked him to pose for a photo but said “no way” and ran away. so i took it anyway. haha. you can run, but you can’t hide! haha. i’m the paparazzi!
then i finally get him to pose. what a huge tree! only people in japan have a connection with this famous tree. but for us in hawaii, it’s just a big tree.
of the many times i surfed with Kimura-san, yesterday was his best session in front of me. i could tell just by the smile on his face every time he paddled back out after catching a good wave. and when you catch a good wave, your smile doesn’t lie. this was our drive on the way back to town. happy surfers on a happy sunday. surfing with good friends, surfing good waves, and surfing forever. this is how we live our lives. as long as we have each other, and as long as we have the ocean, EVERY THING WILL BE ALRIGHT!!!!!
