Sorry, We're Open

230

photo 1
i had another fun day with Tabuchi-san. we decided to dawn patrol the north shore. we checked pipe, backdoor, sunset, and other spots but the wind was onshore and junky. we were almost about to go back to town and surf ala moana. ummm.
photo 2
but before that, i asked Tabuchi-san if he seen a turtle before. he told me “yeah, i seen a dead one on the beach in shikoku before.” OMG! so i took him to my secret turtle beach and he got a look at a live turtle swimming around. we also seen a whale today at sunset beach. and also dolphins jumping in front of us while we were surfing. gosh, i should start a turtle, whale, and dolphin watching tour. haha. but i pretty know exactly where the are at any given day.
photo 3
guess where we ended up surfing? haleiwa! it was so beautiful. perfect 2′ waves and not too crowded. that was the best spot today! we scored!
then i came back to town and surfed ala moana with team Inaida-san. surf good waves all day! smile all night!
photo 23
there is a store near my house. i pass it every single day more than once. do you notice something weird?
photo 4
Sorry We’re Open? huh? isn’t is supposed to be Sorry We’re Closed? is this a joke or am i the joke?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide