good evening. we surfed velzyland this morning. the waves were 3-5′ and coming up. a lot of waves washing through, and a lot of barrels if you were lucky. we had a 3 hour fun session!! by evening time, the waves got up to 8-10’… tomorrow? freaking going off!!! west swell and no wind? pipeline is the spot!!!
this is akudo-san from tokyo. after we surfed 3 hours, we had to eat a big lunch!!! i hope you enjoyed surfing at one of the most heaviest spots on the north shore!!!
and thanks akudo-san for the goodies from japan!! itadakimasu and kampai!!!
on the way back to town, i was craving fresh eggs. i miss eating hot rice/natto/raw egg/miso soup for breakfast. so i stopped by to fulfill my needs…
i’ll be staying on the north shore for the next 2 days so if you see my car, ask me for some fresh eggs. i will throw you a couple. hope you can catch it….
**not to change the subject. i usually don’t let things bother me but something bothered me today. i’ve been surfing the north shore for 22 years and i know who’s local and who’s not. today, there were a few locals that live on the north shore and have surfed velzyland their whole life. i paddled out and said the usual hello’s. into the session, i seen a couple of foreign surfers paddle around the locals on the outside and snake their waves. it happened over and over all morning. just to let you know, free surfing in hawaii isn’t like surfing a contest so it doesn’t matter who’s got the inside position. locals are locals and when you disrespect them like that, it bothers me. then after 2 hours into the session, one of the locals paddled up to me and said “hey kirby, is that guy sitting on the outside with the half suit on your friend?” and he was pointing to a japanese surfer. i looked and told him “no, my friends know better.” i don’t know what happened after that but my local friend was pissed. and after i thought about it, i got a little pissed. why? because if your japanese and snake or take waves from locals, it makes all japanese surfers look bad. fortunately, my japanese friends have the upmost respect for all locals here in hawaii and all over the world. but all it takes is one to make everybody look bad. that’s what pissed me off. i would try to stop, break up, or back up any one of my japanese friends or any japanese surfer from trouble. but if you disrespect locals like that, all i can do is watch. watch you get held underwater, watch you get punched, or watch you get your surfboard fins broken off. if i back you up because of your disrespect to the locals, i’m disrespecting the locals too. throughout my surfing life, i’ve seen it happen over and over in every part of the world. and let me tell you, it ain’t pretty….
i’m not naming names, but i just hope all the younger surfers wake up and calm down. i know you don’t know who is local and who is not local because you weren’t around long enough. but there are locals at every single spot in hawaii and you shouldn’t be paddling around and around them. when you surf at any local spot in the world, it’s all about respect. if you respect locals, they will respect you. pretty simple….
weeeew… just had to let that out. wanted to let it out because if i don’t warn people, something ugly will happen. like it almost happened today. and if this blog can prevent somebody from getting badly hurt, i’ve done a good deed….
