good evening. left early to the north shore again this morning and got out there around first light. i ran to check the waves and i seen a perfect 6′ backdoor wave go unridden with 25 guys out. i thought to myself, yeah, i’m going to score!! so i ran back to my car to grab my 7’0. then as i ran back to the beach, i seen another 6′ backdoor wave go unridden. i thought something was wrong so i watched the waves for a little while standing on the waters edge. then i seen a solid 10′ second reef set break and i figured out why nobody was on those backdoor waves. so there i was standing on the beach ready to surf 10-12′ pipe with my only gun i took out there today, my 7’0. which was way to short for those waves. so do i turn around and not surf? ummm, no. i figure just go out and get one. as i was paddling out, i seen a lot of waves go unridden. guys were just pulling back so i was wondering. so here come a 8′ backdoor wave and i start to paddle for it. just as i was about to stand up, i looked in towards the beach and seen something weird. i saw a 3′ wave coming toward the wave i was about to catch? shit, it was the backwash…. because there is so much sand on the beach, the waves were going onto the beach and bouncing back out to sea. there were 3′ backwash waves on almost every wave. that’s dangerous… so you had to be selective and look at your wave and look if another wave is coming from the beach before you take off. if i knew that, i wouldn’t have paddled out…. but it felt good being in the ocean with so much water moving… feels like the real north shore.. i even had butterflies in my stomach… anyway, the contest started at 9am so everybody had to go in. the waves cleaned up throughout the day and as the waves washed the sand off the beach, the backwash became less. it turned out to be a beautiful day…. can’t wait till tomorrow….
i shot this photo around 9:30am. look good and you can see the backwash coming out into the wave. did this guy make it? hell no….
off the wall was going off too. well, that’s if you can make it out. i paddled out there to try to catch my last wave in. then some freak second reef sets cleaned me and the other 2 guys up. roy powers caught the last one in and i heard he got hurt. shit, lucky it wasn’t me…. north shore power!!!
after i went to hang out at the billabong house to watch the contest with the moniz family… that house is sick… i wish i can own something like that someday….
seth charges so hard that i always forget he’s only 10 years old. i had to make trouble to him….
and yeah, alyssa and kelia… two posers…. haha… just joking….
