i was at makapuu the other day and was looking at the ocean. it was one of the most challenging conditions i’ve ever seen. don’t let the beautiful sun fool you. super strong 40mph winds onshore with 8-10′ open ocean swell. the time i paddled it, it was probably 7 of 10 for dangerous. this day, it was 10 of 10. as i was watching it, i wish i had my paddle board. these are the kind of days that you might make it to waikiki, or you might die at sea. i was actually getting excited thinking about it.
this is the paddle around 1 of 3 dangerous corners. paddling around there at pitch dark was pretty crazy. i will never forget all the seabirds flying around me. i was at a place i love to be. pure nature! hey mike, i might be calling you up for a ride because i think i’m ready for another challenge.
if i don’t paddle, i’ll probably go diving. but the conditions are very very dangerous for diving. high risk, high return. i’ve dove in these conditions before and it’s pretty crazy. i’m craving for red fish so i might sneak out for an afternoon dive session!
here are a few photos Yuki-san took. this was the awesome day at haleiwa. fun big surf!
of course i’m a happy guy after i come in from getting barreled.
Yuki-san also took this photo when i was towing her in from ala moana. i paddle up front, then use my feet to tow people in. you’re pulling double the weight so this is my natural gym. my paddling right now hasn’t been stronger in my whole life. i feel like i can paddle to japan. haha.
anyway, the windy days continue. surf safe and watch out for the falling trees!
