good big thursday evening. gosh, the waves where huge today on the north shore…. crowded, huge, and clean…
passed waimea bay around 10am and seen some 15′ sets. 50 guys out with 7 surfers per wave. that place is out of control…..
dove boss tokura-san came today and cameraman nakajima-san came yesterday. what perfect timing… if they came a month ago when we had bad weather and small waves, that would have sucked…. but from now, the waves should be good all winter… welcome to hawaii….
the traffic around waimea bay was nuts. town bound was backed up to foodland and waimea bound was backed up all the way to the traffic lights at haleiwa. it kind of pisses me off when tourists drive by waimea and slow down to check the waves causing all the traffic. but you know what’s funny, i do the same thing too… but slower… slow enough to take this photo…. haha… tomorrow more big waves, more traffic, and a lot more people….
**by the way, heard the waves at diamond head were going off today!! overhead and perfect conditions….
this was the left off waimea bay. one of the most dangerous lefts in the world. in fact, it’s unsurfable. but you know what? i heard about 15 years ago, mark occhilupo surfed that left at waimea bay when it was 20′. and also heard he was ripping it too…..
and last, check out this photo of the earth setting over the moon’s horizon… that’s sick….
