good morning. 5:45am aloha friday. still got some huge surf on the north shore. and still got some fun waves in town too. surf, surf, surf… everybody go surf!! have a nice surf day!!!
oh my gosh!! check out this sick photo from surfline.com….
this was pipeline 2 days ago. i was out that morning when the second reef sets started to come in. i paddled down to off-the-wall to get a last wave in and there were 12′ second reef waves white washing through. the other 2 guys paddled in and it was just me out there trying to catch a wave in. i only had my 7’0 and there was no way i could have paddled into any one of those. i had 3 options. try to take off on a 12′ white wash and go straight in? wait for a good set and free fall off the drop and break my board and head on the reef? or give in and paddle back around pipe and come in by the lifeguard stand at ehukai? 10 years ago, i would have chose the second option. two days ago, i chose the third. it’s still too early in the winter season to be doing stupid things and getting hurt. not that i saw this photo, i don’t know what the hell i was doing down at off the wall in the first place…. sean davey shot this from a very safe place. on the beach…. gosh, this is a crazy ass photo..
