i wake up, check the waves, Matchi calls me, i wait for the traffic to ease down, then head to haleiwa. Matchi told me it was the cleanest day of the week and the waves were so fun.
there were some clouds mixed up with the sun but when the sun came out, it felt so warm!
Matchi just shaped his new model for the year and after i caught my first wave on this board, i knew it was magic! i just ordered one and should be getting it in 10 days. i can’t wait!
yes, hawaii is back to paradise! had a nice drive out to the north shore, watched a lot of japanese surfers out at haleiwa, ate lunch with Matchi and Shun, and sped back to town at 100mph and got back in 35 minutes. i think i’m watching too much Hawaii Five O. haha.
hey Matchi, thanks for the early morning surf report. it was nice to try your new board out. and Shun, you were ripping! you’re japan’s champion and now i know why. keep on surfing boys!
and hey, the waves in town came up too. had some shoulder high waves with perfect conditions. tomorrow should be super fun. see you in the water.
