good evening. town was going off this morning!! i saved $30 on gas and in 10 minutes, i was in the water. why not? check out the action @ bowls!!!
the dawn patrol surfers always score. i don’t think this girl knows what’s behind her. it’s diamond head. gosh, i would love a photo like this of myself….
alyssa always wants to shoot photos. so when she calls me up and says “ho uncle, let’s go shoot!” i say “shoots brah!”
it was good to see ben aipa out this morning. 23 years ago, ben use to be my coach. when ever i use to take off, he use to yell “kirby, stick it up”, meaning do a quick turn off the take off so you score points. so when ben took off this morning, i was thinking in my head “ben, stick it up!” legend surfer, legend shaper, and an ambassador to surfing….
shooting my friends is just too easy for me. i surf with these guys almost everyday for the past 25 years so i know exactly what and when they will do a turn. bowls local reid kawamae took off and all i had to do is press the shutter once to get the photo. a good surfer and a good guy….
*more photos coming tomorrow…. goodnight…
