good morning. can you believe the south shore swell we have now? i surfed until dark yesterday evening and i swear i seen 4′ sets breaking at diamond head. this winter has been so good on the south shore that i’m scared to see how this summer will be. flat? ever since i started surfing, i don’t remember a winter south shore season like this. good for me because i’m saving gas big time!! and a lot of driving in traffic time. i’m loving every minute of it!!!
as for today, the waves on the north shore came way down. pipe/backdoor is 2-4′ and pretty clean. south shore? still going off!!! no wind so epic conditions everywhere. the onshore sea breeze winds should be coming at 10 am just like yesterday so get on it early!!! see you in the water….
this guy was out dawn patrol yesterday at bowls. he was catching the rights and doing the biggest airs!!! i got some nice photos of him and was wondering if you knew who he is?
this is big john. john’s a bowls local that doesn’t only go left, but goes right too. every time i’m on the beach looking at a perfect right, i see john on it….
angela maki is releasing a photo book in may. i’ve been shooting her in hopes to get a photo in there. so to whoever is publishing her book, please use one of my photos. haha…
somebody sent me an email asking how do i shoot bowls. i told him that it was a secret. want to know what it is? go sleep early, stretch out in the morning, grab a longboard, grab your $5,000 camera, paddle out, sit in the impact zone, take the photo, and get ready for a wave crushing down on your head, or some surfer running you over. over and over and over. by the end of the session, you will feel like you ran the honolulu marathon. pretty simple yeah? haha…
