Freedom!

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i get on the airplane at 9pm last night, i recline my seat, i close my eyes, and wake up as we are landing in hawaii. i look out the window and see blue sky and paradise. gosh, it feels so dam good coming home.
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i walk to the parking lot, jump on the harley, and speed back to town. did you watch the movie “Braveheart?” at the end of the movie, mel gibson screams “FREEDOM!” that’s what i did as i sped down the H1.
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dropped off the bike, took a look outside one of most amazing condos in hawaii, jumped in the truck, ate a pastrami sandwich and soup, went home to take a nap, and now i’m heading out to the north shore for a beautiful wedding. am i jetlagged? yeah, but this is hawaii so i really don’t care. if i wake up in the middle of the night, i will go to the north shore and dawn patrol tomorrow morning.
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and have photos and the reason why i took this short trip to japan. that coming up tomorrow. but as a sneak preview, i extended one day of my 2 day trip because i was invited to an amazing luxury dinner last night that people can only dream of. this was my appetizer as i sipped my champagne. what happened next will blow you away! stay tuned.
i always ask myself “does life get any better than this?” it seems impossible but guess what? “life just gets better and better!” never give up dreaming!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide