good morning. 6:15 am and buoy 1 is up. another north swell!! north shore is 4-8′ and building. town is waist/chest. great surf again for everybody. see you in the water…
didn’t yesterday feel like a hot summer day? i was in waikiki and it looked like peak season summer season. surfers all over the place. and a lot of happy faces….
when i went to check the waves, a pidgin flew onto my hood. he stayed there for a minute before flying off. later in the day, i seen a fresh pile of bird shit on my front hood. that sucked…
when i was driving home from the north shore yesterday evening, people were yelling stuff at me but my windows were up so i couldn’t hear. then when i pulled into my driveway at home and seen the boards hanging off my roof, i figured out why.. haha…
and last, i got a package in the mail from my BFF holli. i opened it and was super stoked!!! i’m traveling with this!!! oh, it’s the ice glass shots i always wanted…
