ohayo gozaimasu. 5:30am here on this chilly morning. planned to wake up at later but i couldn’t sleep because kenji’s snooring was too loud. can barely see the waves but it’s probably going to be good. huge north/west swell tomorrow but north winds along with it. i can see a lot of white wash at bowls right now so i wouldn’t be surprised it it’s 3′. south swell on sunday with north winds? oh my gosh…. there are going to be a lot of happy surfers in town…. secret spots going off!!! anyway, i’m going to the north shore today. have a nice day….
and check out this photo from the pictures of the week. this is the leftovers of the wildfires last year in california. when i was 6 years old, i was playing with matches in our backyard and accidently lit the mountain on fire. i remember when the fire truck came to my house to put out the fire, the fireman scolded me. i will never forget that. since that day, i didn’t play with matches ever again…. i will never forget that day….
my brother is a mechanic and takes cars apart all the time. yesterday when i left the house, he was working on a brand new toyota 4 runner air condition. the car looked like a hurricane went through it. a few hours later when i came home, he was already done putting everything back together. by himself…. he must have a good memory….
