good evening. went to the north shore early this morning and pipe/backdoor was going off!!! it was a bummer because they had a contest so all i could do is watch and dream….
i was dreaming that i was in that barrel….
and this one too….. we ended up surfing haleiwa and it was pretty good. not as good as backdoor but good enough….
then came back to town and the waves were good too. this is diamond head at 12pm. 100 guys out? ended up surfing a secret spot and it was only us…. so today was a good surfing day for me… can’t wait till tomorrow…. oh, the next huge swell supposed to peak tomorrow noon so there’s a good chance the eddie will go. if it’s on, i’m going to go watch history in the making…. have a good evening…
