good morning. 6:15 am and the waves are getting cleaner on the north shore. the swell is out of the north so laniakea is probably going to be the best spot. town is knee/waist high. strong winds so watch out for flying surfboards. these are the days the wind catches your board and pokes you in the head. it’s happen to me before and i see it all the time. so please be careful. i’m going surfing!! have a nice day!!!
**traveling around the world is hard for surfers these days because of the ridiculous excess surfboard charges. i pulled up to check up counters before and have been asked to pay over $2,000 for my board bag. crazy!! and that’s just one way! so now, i try to travel with only one board but the bad thing about that is if it breaks, your done. i’m lucky my surfboard sponsor is japanese and some of my shapers are hawaiian. that way, i don’t have to take my boards back and forth from japan. it saves me a lot of money and hassles.
then there is indonesia where i go 2 or 3 times a year. luckly, i have friends there to take care of my boards. i use to keep my boards at garut’s house but year after year, the boards would somehow get all bust up. dings, pressures, stickers taken off, and even broken. yeah, that’s bali style. haha. my 2 boards there are my backup boards just in case the board i take breaks. so it’s pretty important for me to have them in good shape for boat trips and stuff. last time i went to bali, i picked up my boards from garut and freaked out how bust up they were. one even buckled. so sugimoto-san took it to his friend to paint it and make it look good again. thanks sugimoto-san for bringing my boards back to life again. i can’t wait to ride them this year!!!
this is my 6’4 hansen. i can’t count how many barrels this board has gotten me in the past 5 years.
this is just one of the blue indonesian barrels i got in 2005. i will never forget this day at lenbogan island. they call this place lacerations and if you fall and hit the reef, you will know why they call it that….
then i got my 6’1 mike woo. barrels, off the lips, cutbacks, and hundreds of waves for the past 4 years.
this is a secret spot somewhere up in timor in 2008. i’m going there again this october and will be riding this board again. and hopefully again, and again….
