what an awesome day! got up early, surfed a secret spot in town all myself again. paddled out to perfect waves with nobody around. got some perfect glassy waves. then dropped off a friend at the airport, then went to the north shore. surfed haleiwa for a quick session, went to a meeting, had lunch, picked up 2 of my new boards, got stuck in traffic, came back to town for a photo shoot, and had the most amazing japanese sushi dinner. a completely awesome day!
oh, this was my lunch in wahiawa. meat jun. so good!
then came back to waikiki, the sun came out for an hour, perfect timing for us to get the photos.
this is 10x japanese bodyboard champion Aoi Koike. took some awesome photos of her. and wanted to congratulate her for getting 3rd place in the Pipeline contest yesterday.
same thing today, wake up early and surf, shop, think, eat, and yoga. yeah, i need the yoga to relax my busy mind.
