good evening. wow, got up early, checked everywhere. north shore already had junky west winds so i knew it was coming soon to town. looked around and this super secret spot had perfect waves with only 2 guys out. so we waxed up, paddled out, and had a great experience. a new spot, a new experience, and a new smile. oh, and new wipeouts! haha. the waves were super fun and the conditions couldn’t have been any better. then right on time, the west winds came and made the waves junk everywhere. by then, we were satisfied.
then i came in and went shopping for a friend. i wish i could tell you what we bought but i better not. all i can say is that one of my wildest dreams came true today. thank you friend!
tomorrow more west winds so better go early or forget it. i’m going to watch the wind, the weather, the waves, and surf the best spot again. can’t wait. better eat dinner and sleep early because i still think i’m dreaming.
and to all you kids out there, keep the dream alive. i swear if you dream big, work hard, and never give up, your dreams will come true. i’m a true believer!
