good evening. wow, what another good day of surf in hawaii. i thought the waves couldn’t get any bigger than yesterday but i was wrong. i caught a freak set that broke across the big rights/concessions channel. the biggest and strongest south swell in a while….
i skipped round 2 because the winds were weird. after getting barreled yesterday with the stiff off shore winds, i got spoiled. plus, if i got out in the sun again, my skin off my black face will probably peel off. i’ll be in bali getting sunburned even more in 2 days so i better get some shade. talking about bali, surf, dive, suckling pork, crab, bintang, and a lot of massages… yeah!! my vacation has finally come!!!
i woke up early so i’d figure instead of waiting at home until it gets lighted, i’d wait in the water. i paddled out at pitch dark and i could see guys in the parking lot and even on the guys on the beach on standby mode. i did my standby out in the dark lineup and it felt cool surfing under the stars…
after my morning session, i was driving home thinking what a great start to my day. the sun just came up and i was already done with round 1. felt pretty fresh and excited…
i have a pair of nike shoes. i think i paid $70 for it a couple of years ago and only wore it a few times. when i put it on the other day, something strange happened….
the whole bottom came off. oh my gosh!! i think who ever nike paid to glue my shoe together in china either forgot, or missed this one. do you think i can exchange this?
anyway, i’m off tomorrow and have so much luggage that i need a cart to pull it along. getting from place to place is the junk part of traveling but as soon as you get there and catch your first wave, it’s all worth it. see you guys around somewhere….
