good morning. 6:15 am monday. i bet the waves are good all around the island today but i’m not going to check. why suffer? if it’s good, i’m going to want to surf, and probably will. then if i miss my flight or something, i’ll be in big trouble. i’m packed and ready to go. bali, here i come!!! have a nice day!!!
i drove by diamond head yesterday to check the waves. it was still big but the winds were weird. so instead of driving down to ala moana park, trying to find parking, paddling out and surfing with 40 people, getting sunburned, and getting more surfed out than i already am, i just turned around and went home. took a much needed nap, and finished up packing. good call…
my north shore 09-10 season started off with this back in october. my first barrel!!!
it was a long season but it’s finally over…
otsukaresama deshita means “nice work” and you usually say this to japanese people after a hard day of work, or after a great surf session.
another year of barrels, broken boards, near drownings, and tons of memories…
and this is how my north shore 09-10 season ended. a relaxing day in waikiki!!!
can you believe you can go surf big dangerous waves on the north shore and come back to this? only in hawaii…
