good evening. woke up early to fix some dings in my surfboards. sanding on a sunday morning ain’t the happiest thing to do. but that’s part of the job of being a surfer i guess. then i had to fix the brakes on my car. it started grinding metal to metal a few days ago. not good. changed the pads and now it’s good to go. i was done by 10am and was thinking what i should do because the waves on the north shore was junk. thought about staying home and working on my computer all day but after 10 minutes, something caught my eye…..
i’ve been so freaking busy recently that i totally forgot i had a new board. it was standing in the corner of my house saying “try me”…. my new matchi shape 6’0….
i’ve been riding FCS for over 10 years now. actually ever since FCS was invented. this year, i ordered glass on fins on all my boards because i wanted something different. and you know what? it’s a lot different. my new boards have much more drive and feel a lot more solid. and i don’t have to get confused changing fins all the time to get a board to work the way i want it too. so glass on fins is all i’m going to order in hawaii from now on. but for traveling, still can’t beat FCS….
anyway, i waxed up my board and headed down to diamond head expecting it to be typhoon windy surf. and it was just that. not a single surfer in the water and only one wind surfer. when i got down to the beach, the only windsurfer came in and told me “your hardcore.” i looked at him and said “what?” he said “it’s victory at sea out there and even too windy for windsurfing.” i was thinking i had three things going for me. first, i got a brand new board that i wanted to ride. second, it’s sunday but there was nobody out in the ocean. and third, i have a warm wetsuit on. hardcore? yeah, i guess so. i was paddling out to light house and before i even got out there, this 4′ wave jacked up right in front of me so i took off and it was one of the best waves i’ve caught in a while. the swell was so east that the spot right in front of the shower had waves i’ve never seen before out there. i ended up just surfing there for an hour and caught like 20 perfect rights. all by myself… and the whole time, i was thinking to myself “hardcore”…. i had one of the best sessions i’ve had all winter, including north shore. my board worked super good, i was warm in my wetsuit, and i had the whole ocean to myself… when i finally went in, i saw this japanese surfer walking down the path with his surfboard. so i looked at him and said, “your hardcore.” i don’t know if he understood what i said but i hope he felt as good as i did today….
went to chinatown for lunch. gosh, everytime i go down there, i trip out on how many people are on the streets. feels like i’m really in china…..
