good windy monday morning. waves dropped out on the north shore. 2-3′ and once again, lani’s is the spot. town is waist high and diamond head is probably the best spot. nobody out at pipe, 3 guys out at bowls, and a few at the park. the sun’s out so it’s going to be a beautiful day. get out and enjoy…. aloha….
i did a google search for surfing world magazine today and a link to nagisa island came up. i clicked on it and this photo came out. it was in 1999 when the dove wetsuits team headed over on a boat trip to kandavu island, fiji. i was lucky to go surf this spot that had no name. and was also lucky to be the first ever customers to stay at the nagigia resort on the island fronting this pretty good left. this photo was taken at King Kong’s and not Middle Daku. and we were the ones to name that spot king kong’s. don’t listen to anybody else making that claim because that’s bullshit. on a philippine boat trip 4 years ago, i heard this european saying that they named that spot king kong’s in 2001. sorry guys, we were there in 1999 and the reason that spot was named king kong’s is because kandavu island is where they filmed the classic movie “king kong”. pretty simple. so there it is, the real story…. and there were many other stories on that awesome trip that will just have to keep secret. haha…. the name of the article in surfing world was “kava surf party”. figure it out…. kinsan took that photo. and no, that’s not kelly slater in his white wetsuit. that’s me. kelly seen my awesome white dove wetsuit and had quiksilver copy it. that’s why kelly started wearing white wetsuits in 2000, one year later. haha. that part is just a joke. and after i took that bottom turn, i did a rodeo clown 360 air. haha. another joke. i feel like joking all day today…
this was our boat. check out that dove flag. it’s now hanging on the wall in the dove factory. that’s tokura-san, local fiji surfer ian, me, and imasu-san in the front. kinsan took this photo. another classic trip….
we were getting shuttled back and forth from our paradise island to the boat. it was such a fun trip and everynight was a kava surf party. complete with the most potent kava from kandavu, live fijian music, and a bunch of drunk japanese surfers. haha… here is kinsan, tokura-san, satoshi, and isao at 11pm at night after about 2 kilos of the most potent kava in the world…
