Honey Girl @ The Hole….

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good morning. hey, where is everybody? it’s 6 am and i’m looking at bowls now. the waves are shoulder high and perfect!! only 5 guys out? yeah, 5 guys. i guess everybody is burnt out from the long weekend? if you haven’t surfed empty bowls before, you should go down right now! i’m burnt out too so you won’t see me out there today. have a nice day!!!

a long time ago, i remember going out for a dive and grabbing at least one or two big lobsters. we use to steam the tails and dip it into butter/garlic sauce, or cut it up as sashimi and dip it into wasabi/shoyu. then the head? either steam the head and eat the miso with a spoon, or cut it up and make miso soup out of it. we use to have lobster parties all the time with friends and beers.
now days, i hardly even see a single lobster on a dive. in fact, the last time i seen a lobster in hawaii is so long ago that i can’t remember. gosh, i miss the good old days….

the girl in the back row second from the right is eri nishikami. eri-chan is the distributor in japan for Honey Girl swimsuits. she use to live in hawaii, speaks 4 languages fluently, really smart, and is a hard core surfer. it was eri-chan’s second boat trip and now i know her favorite word, which is “YABAI!!!”
eri-chan,
how was that trip? yabai yeah? how was big ht’s? yabai yeah? how was the sashimi? yabai yeah? haha.. it was really fun having you on board with us. the jokes, the “rich man, poor man games,” the bintang evening sessions, and all the laughter. you have a personality of your own and can get along with anybody. i think everybody enjoyed your company and all the excitement. i hope we can travel again more in the future. thanks for helping with the translations, thanks for all the fun, and thanks for letting us see your happy face surfing at “The Hole!” the photos and video are awesome!!! see you soon either in japan or hawaii!!!
mahalo,
kirby
p.s. wake up earlier to go surfing. getting up at 10 am and going to the beach is too late. the winds are onshore and it’s too crowded right? go 5 am dawn patrol and your life will never be the same…. see you out there!

**CLICK HERE FOR ERI-CHAN’S HONEY GIRL BLOG….


eri-chan @ “The Hole” YABAI!! YABAI!! YABAI!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide