AWAKING OF PADANG….

170


padang, indonesia is the epicenter of many big earthquakes. the big ones hit, the buildings crumble down, but they get right back up and rebuild. the indonesian people of padang must be strong inside. just by looking at their smiles and their daily activity, they look much happier than people in places that never get hit by big earthquakes. last time we were there, i seen this banner “AWAKING OF PADANG.” i was glad to see the people happily running around like nothing bad ever happened there….

looks crowded? look again. this is HT’s, one of the best world class right handers in the whole wide world. look closely. 8 of the 8 guys were from our crew. on a normal day, there would be 50 surfers out there. i’ve seen it before. but on this day, there was just us. our crew surfing big barreling right handers that most surfers in the world only dream of. gosh… i want more!!!

and last, isn’t this photo awesome? i was thinking of chartering this boat for our next mentawai trip. wanna go?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide