good morning. small and clean waves in town. waist/chest high sets maybe at bowls. looking sunny and really clean now. the winds backed down a little. it’s summer so expect crowds everyday all day long. mornings will be best because the kids are still sleeping. evenings? forget it. packed!! i’m going surfing now!! have a nice day!!!
i wanted to welcome toda-san and takami-san back to hawaii! thank you for the wonderful dinner last night. how’s all that meat? i’m still full… see you later today!!!
we’re currently working on go-naminori web magazine vol. 3 now. it been nice getting comments from a lot of body boarders. i know you all love surfing just as much as surfers so we’re trying our best to mix you all in together. we got some big things coming!!! stay tuned!!! this photo is from vol. 1. this is mayumi yamada @ bowls!!!
and guess what else will be in vol. 3. yup, OKINAWA!!! big waves, small waves, and fun for everyone!!! check out this crowd at sunabe. stay tuned….
the guy in the back row third from the right is Rikiya Kitada. rikiya is probably the most underground surfer from japan i’ve ever met. i had no idea who he was until recently. and after seeing his surfing skills on our mentawai trip, i respect him 10 x more. when i seen him first pull into padang airport, i thought he was balinese. he had the weirdest haircut i’ve ever seen. well, paying $1, can’t help. as soon as he got out his board and surfed the first wave, i was really impressed and i think everybody else was too. rikiya was ripping!!! he was getting big and deep barrels. in fact, he got the longest barrel of the trip at ht’s. i shot 35 photos and 8 of them can be cover shots. the video and photos of rikiya are amazing. when you see it, it will blow your mind…. and for those of you who don’t know, rikiya is also the “rich man, poor man” card game master. we had some great times and wait a little till i post the haircut session on the boat. freaking classic!!!
Rikiya,
hey, first, it was nice traveling with you for the first time. i had no idea how good you surfed and so did most of the members. your tube riding and off the lips were amazing. it was awesome watching you surf big waves. in my mind the whole time, i was thinking to myself “wow, if there was a JPSA contest out at the biggest day at HT’s, you would be in the final for sure and have a great chance of winning the whole thing.” i’ve been watching the JPSA for years and in waves like ht’s, you not too many pros can beat you. great surfing and great times!!! thanks for beating me all the time in “rich man, poor man.” i’ll never forget the moon we all saw that night! haha!!! anyway, hope to travel with you again in the future and when the footage of this past trip comes out, you’ll be stoked!!
mahalo,
kirby
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