omg! omg! omg! my flight lands at 8:45am. i could see the waves and conditions perfect. i go straight to the beach and i’m riding my first wave by 9:45. the waves were incredible today!!! solid 4′ and perfect. i get barreled on my first 2 waves, and got barreled and barreled after that. time flew as i was out for 3 hours. my friends told me today was the best conditions since last week. the waves were flawless! not too many surfers out as everybody is burnt out. i’m full genki and full power! it felt so good to be back in the blue barrels of hawaii! went in, ate a sandwich, and paddled right back out. surfed another 2 hours with only 3 other guys out at big rights. today was probably the best south shore surf session in my life. i’m a totally satisfied surfer! and a totally sunburnt surfer too!
the swell has been solid for the past 6 days and it supposed to get bigger tomorrow, then into the weekend again. so happy!
bowls this evening was good too. today i surfed rights at big rights, tomorrow i will surf lefts at bowls.
4-5′ perfection. i couldn’t have came back to hawaii at a better time.
no jet lag, just hungry. i’ve been eating just too much good food so it’s time to get back to reality and eat rice and hot tea for dinner tonight. have a wonderful evening and get ready for another week of surf on the north and south shores!!! yes, north swell coming up today and tomorrow too in the 6′ range with epic conditions.
