i wake up early, check diamond head, and knew it was going to be another awesome day of surf. i thought the waves were going to be smaller but i was wrong. still solid 5′ sets! this 7 day swell is not over yet and most of the locals are calling it the best swell in the history of surfing the south shore. i’ve been surfing for the past 33 years and i agree!
every spot on the south shore was good for this swell. i’ve been hearing stories of big rights, rice bowls, courts, fours, queens, lighthouse, and even china walls going off! this is diamond head going off on the 7th day of the super swell.
bowls has been unreal! the boys are claiming it to be the best ever. most of my friends are either totally sunburned, or totally unable to paddle anymore. the word “Surfed Out” is coming from everybody, including me. “Surfed Out” means surfing too much, sunburn too much, riding too much. paddling too much, and happy too much. i told my friend that i’m probably still the most energetic guy because i missed 3 days of the swell. all they say when the wave is coming is “Go-Kirby!” i love it! these past 3 days has been the best summer days since i ever started surfing. and you know what? the swell is still super strong! see you in the water tomorrow morning! good night.
