i had a great lunch with Akudo-san today. a super nice guy who owns a shop in tokyo called “Standard California.” always nice to see him here in hawaii!
after a fun surf in the morning, i was totally burnt out. tired of getting burnt from the sun, and tired of paddling so much. i decided to take a nap in the afternoon but when i went to check the waves again at 1:30, i couldn’t believe how good it was! so i waxed my board and had a super fun session. only one local out, and many many perfect overhead waves!!!! score! guys were getting barreled left and right. the summer swell continues!
hikaru-san took this photo of dave and i hanging out in chiba. super fun time surfing a single fin on some perfect beach break waves. i’m looking forward to this years typhoon season in japan and when i get the call, i’m there!
photos never die! i was looking at some old photos i took 3 years ago and found this one never published or never seen by anyone. this is Maoh Toda getting ready to pull into a huge barrel while Toda-san watches. this made me feel like shooting photos again! maybe swim out for some fisheye shots this week? i’m going to go get my camera ready now!
